Відео

I have been using Bluetooth on a couple of my BIGTREETECH EBB36 boards and it works great.

I just use BlueTak

I'd love to see an open source of something like this, that uses ESP32 with a Nextion display and having the HMI files also open source and editable. This way, a person could easily adapt the Nextion elements to a larger, faster Nextion and even add our own options.

D: not working for me.... replaced for a new one screen and stills no working :( just asked elegoo support....

Why doesn’t my Orca have that many default filament profiles?

What are the umbilical “attachments” you are using? Basically the stuff the cable comes into both in the toolhead and back of the printer.

What are the umbilical “attachments” you are using? Basically the stuff the cable comes into both in the toolhead and back of the printer.

Daniel, one thing is missing in this otherwise very informative video: Did you notice any significant improvement on X and Y max accelerations?

Elephants foot compensation is a thing in Bambu studio and Orca Slicer…

I've been running canbus (ebb36) for 2 years and my opinion is toolhead board? yes active circuitry toolhead boards? nah. just run umbilical with all the cables. you'll be happier in the long run.

This is to fix your communication error during homing credit to Boxxy and TeachingTech - Communication time out during homing fix Changed TRSYNC_TIMEOUT value in “/home/pi/klipper/klippy/mcu.py” file from 0.025 to 0.050, i.e. was “TRSYNC_TIMEOUT = 0.025”, and became “TRSYNC_TIMEOUT = 0.050”, and the error “Communication timeout during homing probe” disappeared

I curious why you didn't want to use the endstop port on the board? According to the pinout there is a port for both X and Y. 05:11 GPIO 13 and GPIO12. Sensorless homing is cool but defeats the theme of simplifying things, and is not as precise as mechanical endstops. Also the option to use USB/serial connection is on most of the canbus enabled boards. Its interesting to see that LDO did it like this. It wouldn't have taken much to have a canbus transceiver on it too, although there are already pretty solid options available in that config.

I already made something like this almost years ago... use USB to control toolhead.. See stoopid effector.. that my creation..

like if any other can toolhead cannot work over usb(all do)

Everyone bangs on about petg but I cant stand it, ABS is just better in everyway and isnt even really more expensive either

What slicer do you use?

2 years later, do you still use this or have you found something better?

Can anyone help me if i have for the Da Vinci 2.0 xyz printer

Yeah this is good stuff

Is the whole build plate usable or is the corner still reserved for filament cutting?

nah manually moving axis in printer menu is fuller control

24 hours after this video was published Fabreeko put up the Nitehawk 36 for pre-order lol

What a stupid solution for such a gimmik. Just add a fan that circulates the air.

I've had the exact same issues with USB as you are describing, albeit I was running a Pi4 with a 1080p frame camera and 4k nozzle camera @ 1080p. I was still using CAN for my toolhead board, but it seems the Pi3 and Pi4 both have issues with USB easily getting overwhelmed and causing packet dropouts over CAN. I doubt moving to USB would improve things. Moving to a Pi 5 fixed things for me, although it seems absolute overkill for the actual computation the board is doing while running Klipper.

I love my Nitehawks, so much easier to setup than canbus

this seems excessive. cant we use a standard esp boad ? and maybe the 5v from the lightbar?

Pretty fun for me Creality sent mine with stripped screws.

This board is EXACTLY what I needed, thanks a lot for bringing this to our attention Modbot! As someone who's left a hypercube on standby for a year for the shear laziness and lack of time to do the toolhead wiring, this is just what I was looking for! Coming pre-flashed is such a nice touch! I wonder if it'll work with my manta and CB1

For anyone struggling after installing this on F401 with 3.2.0. DACAI display which does not respond after upgraded FW. I have flashed the display fw with dcboot.bin from Marlin2.0.8_Ender-3S1_HWv24S1_301_SWV3.1.9_Two_C_F401_FDM_LASER. To make it work with latest Mriscoc on E3S1, use the "private" folder from dacai_upgrade fw with thumnail preview. Replace the in dacai_upgrade firmware.zlib with firmware.zlib from Marlin2.0.8_Ender-3S1_HWv24S1_301_SWV3.1.9_Two_C_F401_FDM_LASER then flash itplaced on root of sd card as usual. Hope this helps any wanderer who got stuck like me.

What the heck is a "dick-nack"?😂

why pi4, just go with pi5 :D

I don't see the benefit. Cabling is more or less the same like CAN. For CAN you need a CAN-USB adapter, for this you need the USB adapter board. For CAN you need a custom wire (i am using 7 A rated Usb cable i cut) for this you need a custom wire as well, no native usb cable.

Having to start using sensorless homing has stopped me from installing some of the mods like this that I've already bought. Is it necessary to remove the cable chains if you go umbilical, or would it merely look silly to have both?

I have concerns about running timing-critical printing processes across two separate stacks with their own buffered movement ques.. that seems like a bad idea? CAN made sense when the MCU controlling the CANBUS was also the one stepping all the other axis, but once that is a USB to CANBUS that point suddenly becomes mute, now the USB host has to keep everything together instead of filling a single buffer with commands to eventually perform. Is desync between multiple USB devices with their own buffers not an issue at all then? 🤔

You could also install a PI2 from btt and show us a video on that installation. Looking forward for the ebb36 version. Great video

Very interested in the camera setup you have for the 2.4. Have you got any more information about this setup as I am interested ? Thanks :)

I think people are neglecting a few things. Sure you can run an ebb36 board via usb AND power cables. No worries. Now go plug a beacon into it, Oh, you cant? So theres another cable you need to run back to your printer. Same with cartographer or any other device that uses USB. YOU cannot expand an ebb36's usb capabilities. LDO NH36 you can.

I'm very new to this 3D printing thing, and I was wondering, should I do this first or should I do the flow test first? I tried to adjust my Z-Height mid print a few times and found the default Z-Height to have the best result (which kind of surprised me, I thought these settings came in all screwed up for some reason), I think my Z-Height is fine, so should I go straight into this temperature tower? Thank you for all the content =)

ua-cam.com/users/shortswtrn5uSglYo?si=64aHLMoCE3SVuzEz

put a .2 on it no balls

This is a great video on Nitehawk... really well done ! I'm really happy how well Nitehawk is working out , Nitehawk36 is going to be awesome when it's available

Would have been nice if the Nitehawk-SB also had gotten a USB expansion port for a USB probe (like beacon) like the Nitehawk-36 did.

I ended up putting a dedicated Pi in my Voron just for cameras. It removes the possibility of issues like USB bus contention, CPU load (even though NIC should handle that), and I can reboot or modify Klipper and the camera software without worrying about the other.

Mellow sht36 pro is the way to go so many high tier components to to mention 5160 driver for your extruder right on the board. Trouble shooting can is far easier than usb.

Would be nicer if it used usb of 3.1 that supplied the 24v through the USB directly.

Newbie question: Does the extra weight on the toolhead slow done print speed?

Dude.

Well bambu uses a usb c toolhead, is it possible to have a third party one then?

I installed this on my trident and its an amazing upgrade!

1:09 Nice Omnifixo Cameo! Such amazing tools.